![]() ![]() Also look for Genuine Mini Cooper parts built by our expansive list of OEM and OES suppliers including: Bosch, Sachs, INA, FAG, Luk, MANN-HUMMEL, Mahle, NGK, and nearly 50 other OEM suppliers in our catalog. Genuine Mini Cooper sets the standard for your vehicle. When you buy Genuine Mini Cooper parts you're buying and replacing the parts on your vehicle with a part of the exact same quality, fit, and finish of the original. ![]() With power plant and body panel production as well as final assembly taking place in Great Britain the Mini is still distinctively British while tapping into the enormous engineering and production resources of BMW.Į's selection of Genuine Mini parts is anything but mini. Powered by a family of 16v, 1600cc engines, the new Mini is available in naturally aspirated and supercharged variants. The redesigned Mini retains a great deal of the originals charm while executing new styling elements not possible during the original production run. WKN1 OSET to WKN9 OSET - offset cam keys where the figure indicates the degree offset required.Resurrected for 2001, the all new BMW-designed Mini Cooper was larger, roomier and better in every objective way when compared to the original Austin Mini. is available, the other for those without specialist equipment (mechanical method). Two cam timing methods are explained - one where the customary DTI, etc. ![]() These will cause inaccurate settings to be established if points further from 0.005" where used. The nearer ).003" the better as some cams have asymmetric lobes. The points used could be anywhere between 0.020" to 0.003". A certain amount of 'dwell' exists at the cam lobe peak, so is difficult to ascertain true maximum lift point. The reason for taking readings either side of full lift as depicted in the methods is to get a true full lift point. Modern cams have become such a developed art that sticking to manufacturers recommendations is usually the best course unless intimate knowledge of the type of engine build exists. Also the above conditions are exaggerated when applied to small-bore engines. To achieve this offset keys will be needed where non-adjustable cam gear drives are used, available in one-degree increments from 1 to 9 degrees. In both the above, I have stated just the CAM needs turning. To correct this the cam will need turning clockwise. Generally this increases peak outputs, but will lose bottom and some mid range output. Hence measurements and computations will give a value MORE than 106. RETARDED cam timing means valve events are occurring AFTER the recommended point. To correct this the cam will need turning counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise). ![]() Generally this increases bottom and mid range outputs, but losses a little peak output. Your measurement will therefore compute a reading LESS than 106. To explain/clarify her are these terms applied to a common manufacturer recommended 106 degree setting as an example.ĪDVANCED cam timing means that the valve events are occurring BEFORE the recommended point. When timing cams in, two terms are continually confused - ADVANCED and RETARDED. Worth remembering as most engines are like this. Use something reasonably long as a lever to turn the crank with - jerky motion is to be avoided for accurate settings.įor those confused about which end is which of an engine, the FRONT is the water pump end, thus number one piston is nearest the water pump. Fit the flywheel retaining bolt and washer to facilitate crank rotation. The gearbox is ideal, but needs to be stabilised by wedging with a thin sliver of wood or some such. Sit the block/crank/rods/pistons/front plate/cam and cam retaining plate assembly on something that will allow full rotation of the crank without fowling. It's imperative to fit cam (and followers in the case of solid wall blocks) following manufacturers instructions precisely using a good quality cam lube. If the pulley is a slack fit on the key, turn it anticlockwise before nipping the bolt up. I always file a slight 'flat' across them to give plenty of clearance to the gear key slot. Clean out the key-way and de-burr top edges. Get rid of unwanted sticky-out bits on the keys that would inhibit a slide fit. Check the key-ways and keys too before re-fitting. Remove the Woodruff keys then dress the bosses using abrasive material as mentioned previously. Clean out using with fine emery cloth, medium Wet 'n' Dry paper, or some such. If tight, first check for any high spots in the gear bores and key-way slots. To avoid lots of swearing and unnecessary damage, check the timing gears slide neatly onto their respective bosses. ![]()
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